The audience in the live broadcast room was shocked:

"What does Chen Shen mean, he still surfs on such a big wave?"

"Does Chen Shen know, what does the ten-meter-twenty-meter big wave mean?"

"I don't understand it very well. If it's all water, a big wave of ten meters and twenty meters is okay. Chen Shen jumped over 50 meters of water and kayaked through a 55-meter waterfall."

"That's different. Surfing is dangerous."

Liu Jing became nervous again and explained: "The small waves that most people usually play are really not very dangerous, but if they are more than three meters away, they may be stunned. With a large wave of 10 meters and 20 meters, the volume of sea water, the waterfall is far from it. Compared to, it’s enough to stun people in an instant. If there is a rock underneath, it’s even more dangerous, and even if you don’t get stunned, the waves behind will be shot wave after wave, making you unable to float. , I can’t catch my breath, let alone escape, even the speedboat can’t rush in to rescue him.”

Lin Hai said: "Don't underestimate the ocean, this is really terrible."

16

Those who were a little bit savvy were all taken aback.

People who don't understand surfing can easily misunderstand surfing into two extremes.

Some people infinitely magnify the danger of surfing. When it comes to surfing, they think of struggling in the sea with huge waves. That's wrong. In fact, most people play with very small waves. For a novice, it’s a little bit small. Bailanghua, barely stand up and slide for a while, you can be very happy. It’s even better if you get more advanced, dash for a green wave of one or two meters, and learn a few tricks. As long as you take precautions, pay attention to surfing traffic rules, and don’t steal other people’s waves and cause collisions, there is basically no danger.

But on the other hand, it is wrong to think that surfing is not dangerous in water. Once a wave exceeds three meters, there is a certain danger. If it exceeds ten meters, it is definitely an extreme sport. Once a Wipeout (Wipeout), that is, the surfer loses his balance and accidentally falls into the water from the surfboard, or the speed is faster than the big waves, it is very dangerous. Even if there are rescuers nearby, they may not be able to save you.

"Young man, the waves are too big now, you can't go out to sea, it's going to be dead." The owner of the Blue Perkin Marine Supply Store is a middle-aged uncle wearing a checkered shirt and shorts, he persuaded. He felt that Chen Yi might be a novice, so he didn't know the horror of the ten-meter big wave.

"It's okay, I have good skills, please help me put on the anti-slip wax, forget it, let me do it myself." Chen Yi said, seeing the shop owner trying to stop him, he simply picked up the anti-slip wax and went on it by himself. The so-called non-slip wax is a special wax for surfboards. It is applied to the surface of the surfboard to prevent slippage. Otherwise, it is too slippery when you step on the surfboard with bare feet.

"Chen Yi, don't mess around, this is really too dangerous." said the Global Racing staff.

"It's okay, I'll take care of what happened. I didn't foul you and you can't stop it, otherwise it's really restricting me." Chen Yi said.

The staff wanted to cry without tears, but we are not restricting you because we are obviously afraid of your death. This is the end of the matter, and I can't stop it. They can only prepare the speedboat, ready to rescue at any time. But they couldn't help feeling panicked as they watched the huge waves that were getting higher and higher.

Chen Yi quickly put on the anti-slip wax, went into the locker room to change into a pair of swimming trunks, took a surfboard, and walked to the beach. This was the first time he was naked, and his figure suddenly exploded in the live broadcast room.

"Fuck, what a perfect figure."

"That mermaid line of eight-pack abs, damn it."

"Chen Shen, I love you."

"Chen Shen, I want to give birth to a monkey with you."

Men admire Chen Yi's figure, and girls fans are even more excited. But seeing Chen Yi walking towards the beach, the emotion of appreciation was quickly replaced by fear.

Chen Yi watched a little while walking, and saw that the wind was offshore and the direction of the waves was towards Moon Island. He was very satisfied. When the program group set the way forward, he still had a lot of consideration, otherwise The direction of the waves is opposite, so surfing again is useless.

When there was still six or seven meters from the sea, he suddenly rushed forward. After running three or four meters to accelerate, he threw the skateboard on the beach, stepped on it with one foot, and then directly on the beach by inertia and the seaside slope. slide. After sliding for two or three meters, it rushed into the sea and there were waves on the seashore. However, this kind of nearshore waves are fast and strong, so they are not suitable for surfing, especially at the junction of sea and sand, where the waves have collapsed.

The moment the surfboard rushed into the sea, he lost his balance, but Chen Yi stepped on the surfboard and exerted force on the toe of his right foot. He stepped on the tail of the board. His left foot turned the tip of the board and turned 360 degrees on the sea. Instantly passed a row of crashing waves, the forward inertia had not been exhausted, and continued to slide forward. There are only a few waves on the sea, and Chen Yi uses these little waves to keep the sea floating and balanced.

The buoyancy of a surfboard is actually not enough to support a person. If it is still water, no matter how well your balance is, you will sink when you stand on it. Only when there is a wave, under the driving force of the wave , Can float, float on this kind of reverse wave, the difficulty coefficient is extremely high. Even Chen Yi can do it with the help of forward inertia.

Fortunately, a little further ahead, it was a wave over three meters. 443 Chen Yi rushed directly onto the wave wall, squatted down and rushed to the upper part of the wave wall, and drew an arc along the upper part of the wave wall, with the surfboard in the air. Flicked a beautiful splash of water, returned to the middle of the wave wall, and was pushed by the wave to quickly slide.

The waves do not hit the coast directly. There is an angle. Chen Yi slides along the wave wall away from the coast, so that he can rush to the Moon Island without being washed ashore.

I used to drift and drift alone before, and I had the feeling of riding the waves, but at this moment, it is the real wave riding, just like the sea king, controlling the waves as the driving force for progress.

The audience in the live broadcast room was dumbfounded, and the barrage area suddenly exploded.

"Fuck, fuck, fuck."

"You don't need to paddle on your stomach, just rush into the waves from the beach?"

"The surfing instructor told me that the nearshore waves cannot be rushed over first, and they should be lying on the surfboard and waiting for the waves. Can't rush...As a result, Chenshen made a series of wrong demonstrations, which not only succeeded but also became a gods operation. Is there a surfing coach on the scene, can you come out and explain?"

"The surf instructor said that I was so confused."

"I don't care what the principle is, I only know that this is so handsome."

"I'll go, it's a Tianxiu at the beginning.".

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