Cross the river pawn

Generally speaking, it is not necessary to wear a crown when wearing ordinary clothes, and you can replace it with a hairpin. Among Taoists, jade and wooden hairpins are the most common, and the material determines the price.

Then there is the Taoist robe. This Taoist robe is not a Taoist priest's robe, but an extremely popular casual clothing. From the emperor to the common people, the Taoist robe is regarded as one of the main clothing for daily wear.

The shape of the Taoist robe is: straight collar, big placket, right lapel, big sleeve cuffs, the collar is inlaid with a collar protector, slits on both sides, connected with a hidden hem, with three pleats or no pleats on the hidden hem, and tied with a tie. It can be worn with silk sash, thin cloth belt or large belt.In the previous Wei Dynasty, Taoist robes were already very popular and were almost a standard accessory for scholars. Because scholars knew a lot of principles, the world called them "Taoist robes", but it had nothing to do with Taoism.

Before the Daxuan Dynasty, the general trend of Taoist robes was that the sleeves continued to become wider, and large and long sleeves were favored by people. By the end of the Wei Dynasty, the "big sleeves" of the robes had developed to the point of being somewhat exaggerated.

In the earliest times, Taoist robes were as long as the shoes, and the sleeves were no more than a foot. Later, the clothes gradually became shorter and the sleeves became larger, reaching just below the knees. The robe was dragged outside the robe, and the sleeves reached three feet. The sleeves were cupped and the bottoms reached the boots. Then pile them on the boots.

In other words, the sleeves of the Taoist robe are so exaggerated that when the hands are cupped and bowed, the bottoms of the sleeves can pile up to the top of the shoes.

When Daxuan conquered the world and Taoism defeated Confucianism, changes were made to the Taoist robes. First, the wide sleeves were changed to narrow sleeves, and then the length of the clothes was slightly adjusted to facilitate movement.

The price of Taoist robes is also determined by the material.

The last thing is shoes. During the previous Wei Dynasty, the shoes were very shallow, no more than an inch.Now, my feet are very deep and my mouth is almost like jumping.

The so-called "芊" refers to prosthetic foot.In ancient times, there was a torture method called "cutting off", which involved cutting off both feet of the prisoner. Therefore, there is an idiom "The lowly shoes and the expensive ones", which means that too many people have been subjected to "cutting off", which makes shoes cheaper and prosthetic feet more expensive. expensive.

Therefore, today's shoes are somewhat similar to short boots, using more materials, and the price has also increased, but the most important factor in determining the price is the material.

Qi Xuansu entered a clothing store called "Su Ji".

Hairpins, robes, and shoes are listed on the three walls, making it clear at a glance.

"What does this guest want?" The owner of the shop, a woman, stood behind the counter and asked proactively.

Qi Xuansu said: "I plan to buy a set of regular clothes, including clothes, crown and shoes."

There was a smile on the face of the landlady, and she pointed to the various hairpins on the shelf behind her and asked, "I wonder what kind of hairpin your guest would like? The most popular thing these days is jade hairpin. This black jade dragon-shaped hairpin, as long as Twelve yuan of peace money, what do you think of the inn?"

Just twelve yuan in peace money?It seemed that the landlady's "only" was very different, and Qi Xuansu complained in his heart.

However, the expression on his face remained unchanged, and he said noncommittally: "Is the dragon shape too ostentatious? Or the Molong. Is there anything else?"

This is a very reasonable reason. Although Daomen slaughtered dragons, the imperial court still respected dragons in many places because it inherited some of the old systems of the previous dynasty. In addition, Daxuan admired the black color. This kind of hairpin was used in Yujing. It's nothing, but it's easy to violate taboos when you arrive in the Imperial Capital.

The landlady didn't think much, and pointed to another simple-looking black jade hairpin: "Where is this one? No matter it is Yujing, Imperial Capital, Wangting, or Loulan, it will not violate taboos, and it should be towards Shui Dexuan. The color, the disadvantage is that it is too bland, a bit unremarkable, and only costs ten yuan Taiping."

Qi Xuansu asked: "That's it."

Next comes the Taoist robe, which is the big head.

As the so-called silk and satin, silk is thin and can transmit light, making it shiny; Luo is light; silk is soft and has a uniform and delicate texture; satin is clear and beautifully woven.

The materials of Taoist robes are mainly silk and satin. Generally speaking, silk and other materials are the preferred materials for women.There is really no sense of beauty when a man wears clothes that are vaguely visible.

Qi Xuansu chose a dark blue satin robe, suitable for winter wear, and it cost thirty yuan in peace money.There are also corresponding lower garments and middle garments, which cost ten yuan in peace money.

Qi Xuansu also chose a pair of black satin square-toed shoes with silver edging. They were made of genuine silver thread and were decorated with broken jade. They cost fifteen yuan in peace money.

Qi Xuansu bought another "gun case" for carrying handguns, which was more exquisite than the one issued by Tiangangtang and cost five yuan of peace money.

In addition, there are folding fans, but considering the current season, Qi Xuansu is not in a hurry to buy such things.

This total cost seventy yuan of peace money. If Qi Xuansu hadn't just received the customary silver, he would have been reluctant to squander it like this.

After Qi Xuansu paid, the proprietress packed the clothes and asked thoughtfully: "Does the guest want a cloak? They are all genuine and have a one-piece hood. They only cost [-] yuan Taiping." Qi Xuansu took the package and declined politely: "Forget the cloak, I won't need it for the time being."

After Qi Xuansu left this clothing store, he went to a jade shop not far away and spent thirty yuan of peace money to buy a jade pendant that was in pretty good condition.

In this regard, Qi Xuansu didn't feel bad about Taiping Money, because in addition to Buddhism's preference for gold and gems, Taoism and Confucianism both preferred various jade stones. Therefore, jade pendants have stable prices and are very valuable. When they are short of money, It can also be sold at a discount.

In this way, Qi Xuansu spent a full one hundred Taiping money, and only two hundred Taiping money was left.

Now Qi Xuansu somewhat understood why Zhang Yuelu said that the money was not enough. It was too much money to spend for the word "decent".If you want to buy another spiritual object that is suitable for you, it will easily cost hundreds or even thousands of peace money. Even a fourth-grade wine-sacrifice Taoist priest will have trouble.

Qi Xuansu returned home with new clothes, simply cooked a pot of porridge, and fell asleep.

The next day is the Xiayuan Festival on October [-]th, which is Shuiguan's birthday. Jinque and Jiutang will organize various sacrificial activities, but Qi Xuansu has a rest today, so there is no need to participate.

He didn't get up until noon, put on the regular clothes he had just bought, tied his hair with a jade hairpin, a white middle coat, a narrow-sleeved dark blue robe, satin cloud shoes, and put on a jade pendant, which gave him a completely new look.

When it was Shenshi time, Qi Xuansu left the house after packing, but he met Taoist Cui as soon as he went out.

It is said that a man relies on his clothes and a horse relies on his saddle. Qi Xuansu changed into new clothes. Taoist Cui almost didn't recognize him and said in surprise: "Tianyuan, I haven't seen you in two months. Have you become rich?"

"Aunt Cui is joking." Qi Xuansu said, "It's because the young lady from Tiangang Hall got her hair down and has plenty of money, so she bought herself a complete outfit."

Tiangangtang is not the Qingping Society. All income is earned openly and there is nothing that cannot be said.

Taoist Cui looked Qi Xuansu up and down and joked: "If a man knows how to take the initiative to groom himself, he probably has a girl he likes. Tianyuan, tell the truth, whose girl is she from? Is she a colleague you met at Tiangang Hall? ?”

Qi Xuansu waved his hands repeatedly: "Nothing, today happens to be the Xiayuan Festival, and there is a social gathering between friends."

Taoist Cui smiled and said: "In that case, go quickly, I have something to do."

Qi Xuansu's master, Qi Haoran, was a fourth-grade wine-offering Taoist priest at that time. Taoist Cui and Qi Haoran were friends of the same generation. Of course, they were not ordinary people. He was a fifth-grade Taoist priest back then, and now he has been promoted to a fourth-grade wine-offering Taoist priest. When he was appointed, even if Qi Xuansu was promoted to the sixth rank of Taoist priest, he would still call him "Master Cui". It was only because of the relationship in his early years that he called him "Aunt Cui".

After Taoist Cui left, Qi Xuansu hailed a sheep cart and headed to Taishangfang.

The distance between Xia Bafang and Shang Bafang is really not short, and today is the Xiayuan Festival. People come and go on Shangqing Street and Yuqing Street. There are even lanterns hung on both sides of the streets, so even if you are riding a sheep cart, It also took more than an hour to reach the east gate of Taishangfang.

As soon as Qi Xuansu got off the sheep cart, he saw Zhang Yuelu walking out of the east gate.

Today, Zhang Yuelu also changed into regular clothes, but very conservative. The upper body is a sky blue waist-length double-breasted jacket, which is buttoned all the way to the neck. It can be said that it is tight. The lower body is a plain white skirt, and the skirt hangs down to the tread. , only the round-toed shoes stuck out of the skirt, and she was covered with a blue and white armor.Because she was not married yet, her hair was neither tied up nor covered with pearls, but simply tied up with a wooden hairpin.

If this were during the Jin Dynasty, Zhang Yuelu's dressing up could only be considered ordinary. The reason why it is said to be conservative is because during the Wei Dynasty in the previous dynasty, the Xinxue emerged and replaced Neo-Confucianism. It no longer blindly suppressed human desires, so the world became more open. .

By the end of the Wei Dynasty, it had developed to its extreme.

It is not strange for a man to dress in women's clothing, with lipstick, facial makeup, and red silk hair. The most unusual color is red and purple. He even has a gold hairpin in his head and a woman's red and purple skirt.There is a poem that goes: "Anyone who wears women's clothes is a scholar."

Women no longer bound their feet, dared to wear clogs, and dressed more boldly. They developed the "main waist" of underwear, which is similar in shape to a vest. The opening is backward and fixed with a row of buttons or laces, forming an obvious waist. The way to highlight your figure.Especially in the late Wei Dynasty, it was more common for women to wear close-fitting underwear outside. Some bold women did not wear a middle coat and deliberately left the collar of their coat open to expose the main waist.

When the Daxuan court replaced the Wei Dynasty, this trend was slightly restrained. At least the trend of men wearing women's clothing was stopped, but there was still no emphasis on etiquette and education.Although there is no such thing as "fashionable makeup" for women, fashion trends are extremely changeable. The length of tops and skirts is often devalued, and the styles of clothes are also narrow or wide.The clothes in all directions are imitated in the imperial capital.

Nowadays, it is popular in the imperial capital to have a straight collar and a double breast, with slits at the armpits. The shorter train reaches the waist, and the longer train reaches the knees.Many women don't wear middle clothes, only the main waist, and the outer turban, which exposes the white greasy skin on the chest, which is quite a legacy of Shengqi.

In this atmosphere, Zhang Yuelu's outfit, although elegant and simple, was a bit conservative.

However, Qi Xuansu was not surprised by this situation. In fact, based on his understanding of Zhang Yuelu, he even thought that Zhang Yuelu would wear men's clothing. This is also one of the trends today. After all, many women's clothing is too cumbersome to travel on horseback or fight with others. , not as convenient as short-dress men's clothing.When they went to Wugoshanli, Zhang Yuelu and Mu Jin were both dressed in men's clothing that had been modified. Now they are just more conservative, which is already very good.